"It's time to prepare for winter."
Part 2 - Motor & Trailer
Author - John E. Brady, Hanover PA-USA
Copyright 2001
e-mail - jeb@jebswebsite.com
In my last article I discussed the importance of winterizing your rig for the winter. Specifically, I covered steps for preparing a boat. This time I'll cover motor and trailer.
Winterizing a motor can be a little more detailed than a boat. However even a novice can do it. But if you're uncomfortable about tackling the job, you can take it to a knowledgeable repair service rather than doing it yourself.
First, in order to avoid condensation buildup in your gas tank fill it full of gas or gas and oil mixture whatever is appropriate for you motor. Get a bottle of fuel stabilizer and include it in your full tank of gas. Not only will it protect the gas through the winter, it will help avoid varnish deposits in your carburetor.
If you have a larger engine with fuel injectors, it is also a good idea to run fuel injector cleaner through the system before putting it away for the season. The best time to do this would be late in the season, but well enough ahead of time to allow the cleaner to run completely through the system.
Next, lower the motor in the run (vertical) position and attach a motor muff that's attached to a garden hose. You can use a large container of water, but you'll need to continue filling the container while the motor is running. The size of the container depends on the size of the motor. Don't run the motor without water. This will ruin your water pump in just a few minutes. Take off the top cover and start the motor. Make sure water is coming out the sight hole. Spray a steady stream of a fogging agent into the carburetor throat until the motor stalls. The fogging agent covers everything inside the motor with a thick coat of oil protecting it from collecting moisture and causing rust. Don't be tempted to put in new spark plugs at this time. It's best to put new plugs in just before you start the motor in the spring. New plugs now will just get fowled right away from the fogging.
Next, spray the outside of the carburetor, linkage, and all other parts with a rust inhibiting lubricant. After you've finished, replace the cover.
Now drain and inspect the lower unit oil. If it's cloudy, it has water in it. Left alone, it could freeze and crack the lower unit. Further inspection of lower unit seals may be needed. It's best to consult a service center at this juncture. If the oil appears okay, refill using a quality lower unit oil. Replace the water pump if it's two to three years old. Most water pumps are made of flexible rubber, and after a few years get hard and sets. If it does, it could fail early into the next season if it's not replaced. Add grease to all grease fittings until it pushes out at the seams. This will allow the new grease to push out all the older grease, as well as any water that may have accumulated. Water and contaminated grease could cause internal corrosion. If you have remote steering. Extend the steering linkage fully. Apply a light coat of the same grease to the exposed steering linkage using a dab of grease on a clean, lint free cloth.
Wipe down the whole motor with soap and water, and dry with a clean dry cloth, and apply a coat of wax using the same wax you used on the boat hull.
Now put on your boat cover. Make sure it fits snugly over the sides, and tighten it securely. Be careful not to get it too tight, it could tear under the weight of snow and ice. Check that it doesn't sag in the middle. If it does, use a bucket, saw horse, or similar to hold it up. This will keep any snow and ice from accumulating. If you have a cloth cover, I recommend covering it over with an additional plastic tarp for extra protection.
Now for the trailer. Jack up each wheel and spin the tire lightly. This will allow you to determine if the wheel bearing are binding. If the tire spins erratically, or not at all, they need replaced. If the bearings seem okay, pull the wheel assembly and clean and re-pack the bearings. Check for any grease thrown on the wheel or trailer. An over abundant amount of grease means worn seals. It will take special tools to install new seals, so I advise that you take it to a service center to have them replaced. Replace the wheel assembly and fill the bearing protectors with grease. Check the tires for proper air pressure. It's a good idea to block the trailer and pull the tires. Store them inside. This will eliminate developing flat spots on the tires as well as protect them further from the weather. This is especially advisable if you plan on parking in grass or on bare earth. The proper way to jack up the trailer is to raise it by the axle keeping the trailer springs in a load position.
Pull the covers off the tail lights, and check for water. If there's moisture present, wipe it dry. Spray the bulb sockets with the same spray lubricant you used on the boat wiring. Clean the inside of the light cover with an all purpose cleaner before replacing it.
These steps I've covered in these two columns covers the basics plus a little more. As always, check your manuals and follow the manufacturers recommendations. Following these steps may seem like a lot of work now, but you'll be glad you did in early spring when the first warm spell arrives. You'll be able to be the first one on the water and can concentrate on catching fish.
Remember..."They call it fishing, but the goal is catching!"